pre-birthday weekend.

I stayed in Richmond with some friends in Richmond on Friday night and had a blast. I checked the weather report before leaving and saw no signs of rain for the next few days in Salem and Catawba, VA, so I made a last minute decision to drive on home for the rest of the weekend up until my birthday and do some bouldering despite the high temps.
I climbed a little Saturday evening before dark and wasn’t feeling very strong and knew that Sunday would be better, so I decided to save skin. I got up right at sunrise on Sunday and drove back up to the roadside boulder to have a session, take some photos and video, and just relax on a cool summer morning in beautiful southwest VA. I took my time and did my usual circuit and then started working on my projects. I made good progress on the Moneyshot v7, the boulder problem that has haunted me for a few years now. It’s an amazing boulder problem, one of the best on the entire knob, but it’s certainly not my style. It’s about 8-10 moves in total, depending on your beta, up a very steep inverted face with small and very sharp crux holds in the middle.
There is also an Ivan Greene problem that goes from right to left across the roadside bloc called Brooklyn Bridge V8/9. It’s only seen a handful of sends from some pretty strong dudes, probably because not many know about it. The beginning traverses left along decent holds, but requires a very tricky campusing crossover right into the crux of the Moneyshot to finish up on Centerline. The crimps at the roadside have almost a bruising effect on my tips, which has always limited the number of good attempts I can make on these problems in one session.

I never lose that much skin, I just can’t bear that sharp brusing pain for very long, especially in the relentless conditions of summer. That and the bugs. I spent Sunday morning with a platoon of daddy long leg spiders, all of whom seemed to be climbing much harder than I was with very little effort. I also found a freshly shed snake skin near the landings. It was small, probably from a garter snake, but I did see a picture of a monster-rattler (4-5 ft.) that some friends took about a month ago near the top. And to the best of my knowledge, he’s still alive somewhere on the mountain, and that makes me nervous. Just another reason I can’t wait until the cold weather comes back.

Anyway check out the pictures and I’ll have some video up soon.

Moneyshot V7 – opening move.

starting moves of Brooklyn Bridge V8/9.
the last remaining project @ the roadsidev12ish???


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